Sunday, January 11, 2004


i'm sleepy, yo. woke up early to run all my errands, as previously discussed. It was actually nice, because the customs office is in the middle of Jaffo. So i got off the bus at the clocktower at the entrance to Jaffo, and walked all the way down Yefet St. Not too bad, only an hour and a half wait, then a half hour with a grumpy desk jockey who made sure i was well aware that he had been working non-stop since 8 (that's a whole 4 hours shuffling papers, mind you). Not to belittle the hard working professional strikers, who clearly deserve the full pay they'll be getting for the 4 months they spent not working, but for christs sake man, get a grip already. Naturally i used all my charismatic charm to make him happy and smiling and shining, and that way getting everything i want. He could have given me shit for random stupid beaurocratic nonsense, because these people are magicians at pulling shit out of their ass. He went through all my passports, and copies of my parents passports to make sure that i really truly fo' shizzle ma' nizzle, that i had in no way no how absolutely NOTUNDERSTAND NOT!! lived in Israel for the last 20 years. what stupid crap. dude, you've been working sooooo hard for 4 grueling hours, why are you making your life harder doing EXACTLY WHAT THE IMMIGRATION OFFICE DID AND CLEARLY DOCUMENTED AND THOSE DOCUMENTS ARE RIGHT THERE IN FRONT OF YOU, YOU STUPID MORON!

all this was emoted with a pleasant smile. I'm impressed, cos i was really really hungry.

which is ok, because my reward (as i promised myself) was a walk down to Khummus Hagai. This is the kickass place that drops food in front of you before you order anything, then takes your order, then shows up with desert and coffee without being asked. amazing food. super duper cheap. super duper tasty. if you're down in jaffo, check it out.

then i walked all the way back up yefet, which is always delightful. The sounds of arabic, the smells of Abu Laffia (unfortunatly i was too full for a nosh), mixed with the bussel of people down the narrow streets and crowded shops, and john lennon playing from the place with that delightful little desert who's name escapes me.

since i couldnt remember where my bus was, i walked on along the water. Watching the very adorable old couple snuggling and snogging on a bench. There was a fisherman weilding an impossibly long fishing pole and sitting at the end of what looks like a thousand year old stone dock that's not only covered by, but seemingly held together by the thick coating of barnacles and other sea stuffs. I'd curse myself for not bring a camera if it wasn't all so relaxing. loks like it'll rain tonight, but the clouds are beautiful.

i dont know if i've talked about the clouds here, but they're unlike any other place i've ever been to. It's as though every possible type of cloud exists here at once, somewhere in the sky. The sun (always blazing) makes the edges of even the thickest coulds burn, and holes in the sky are sea blue. The nicest (for me anyway) are the clouds that look like they're coming straight out of the sea. like pillars of motionless white smoke.

tonight it's bernard lewis at the uni....perhaps i'll take a nap first.


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